North Yorkshire is England's largest county, and that size works in your favour when you're touring by motorhome. There's proper space here. The Yorkshire Dales in the west are all dry-stone walls, sheep, and river valleys with names like Wensleydale and Swaledale that sound like something from a period drama. The North York Moors to the east are bleaker and emptier, with heather-covered plateaus that turn purple in August and September. Between them, the Vale of York is flat farming country that you'll mostly pass through on the A1 corridor. Then there's the coast, from Whitby down to Scarborough and Filey, with proper seaside towns that haven't been gentrified beyond recognition. The driving is good: wide A-roads connect the main towns, and even the dale roads are better maintained than you'd expect.
The Dales have a solid network of small campsites, many run by farmers who've been taking tourers for decades. Don't expect glossy facilities. What you get is a flat pitch, usually with hookup, and reliable directions to the nearest pub. Hawes, Leyburn, and Settle are the main cluster areas. Sites around Hawes tend to book up during the weekly Tuesday market.
On the Moors, the villages of Helmsley, Pickering, and Hutton-le-Hole have nearby sites that serve as good bases for walking. The Forestry England sites at Dalby Forest and Cropton are set in woodland, which is pleasant in summer but can feel damp and enclosed outside peak months.
The coast has larger, busier sites. Whitby and Robin Hood's Bay attract motorhomers year-round, but pitches near Whitby fill fast on weekends when the goth festival is on (late October) or during school holidays. Scarborough has several commercial parks, some with sea views and some decidedly without. Check what you're booking. Britstops options are scattered across the county, with a decent concentration of pub stopovers in the western Dales.
Enter the Dales from the south via the A65 to Settle. The road is wide and fast from the M6 junction. Visit Settle's market square, then head north on the B6479 through Ribblesdale, past the Ribblehead Viaduct (there's a layby with space for motorhomes and a view of the viaduct that's worth the stop). Continue to Hawes on the A684. Wensleydale's main road is comfortable for large vehicles. From Hawes, take the moorland road over to Swaledale via the Buttertubs Pass. This is a proper single-track road with steep drops and passing places. Fine in a smaller motorhome, not advisable over 7 metres. Reeth at the bottom of Swaledale has a village green and a couple of good pubs. Return east via Richmond and the A1.
Start in Helmsley, which has a decent car park near the castle that takes motorhomes. Head north on minor roads through Rievaulx (the abbey ruins are worth a stop, small car park) and up onto the moor. Pick up the A170 eastward to Pickering, then take the A169 north to Whitby. This road crosses the open moor with long views and few obstacles. Whitby itself is tricky to park in, so use the park-and-ride or one of the campsites on the outskirts. From Whitby, the A171 south through Robin Hood's Bay to Scarborough is a good coastal road, though Robin Hood's Bay village is accessed by a very steep, narrow lane that you shouldn't attempt in a motorhome. Park at the top and walk down.
A gentler route for larger motorhomes. Start in Harrogate (the Stray car park can accommodate motorhomes during the day), head north through Ripon to Fountains Abbey. The abbey has a large National Trust car park without height barriers. Continue to Masham, home to two breweries and a good stopover town. Then across to Thirsk (James Herriot's surgery is now a museum) and south to York. York itself is best approached by park-and-ride. The Askham Bar site is the easiest for motorhomes. The A1(M) corridor makes this loop straightforward and stress-free for any vehicle size.
Walking is the main draw, and the variety is real. The Yorkshire Three Peaks challenge (Pen-y-ghent, Whernside, Ingleborough) is a full-day hike that starts and finishes in Horton-in-Ribblesdale, where there's a car park that fits motorhomes. It's a serious walk at 24 miles, not a casual outing. For something lighter, the riverside path from Aysgarth Falls through Wensleydale is flat, short, and has a good tea room at the end.
Whitby deserves a full day. The abbey ruins on the clifftop, the 199 steps, and the harbour with its fish and chip shops are all within walking distance. The town has a connection to Bram Stoker's Dracula, which you'll hear about repeatedly whether you want to or not. The fish and chips from the Magpie Cafe have a reputation, but the queue can run to 45 minutes in summer. The smaller places on Church Street serve comparable fish without the wait.
York is the big cultural draw: the Minster, the Shambles, the National Railway Museum (free entry, excellent). You'll need a full day minimum. Don't try to drive into the city centre. The medieval streets literally cannot accommodate a motorhome. Castle Howard, about 15 miles north-east of York, has grounds worth half a day and a car park that handles coaches, so motorhomes are no problem.
Service points are available at many of the larger campsites, particularly around Harrogate, Scarborough, and the main Dales villages. No public motorhome service areas exist in the county. Plan waste disposal around your campsite stops.
For fuel, Tesco and Morrisons in Harrogate, Northallerton, and Scarborough all have easy-access stations. Avoid filling up in the Dales villages where there are few stations and prices are noticeably higher. Some of the more remote Moors villages have no fuel at all, so don't let your tank drop below quarter.
Road-wise, North Yorkshire is one of the easier counties for motorhomes. The A1(M), A59, A64, A170, and A684 are all wide and well-surfaced. The dale heads get narrower, particularly upper Swaledale and Littondale, where you'll encounter single-track roads with passing places. The North York Moors roads are generally good, with the exception of some lanes around Farndale and Rosedale. Height barriers exist at several coastal car parks in Whitby and Scarborough. Whitby's main town car parks are generally not suitable for motorhomes due to size constraints.
The town centre car parks are tight and mostly have height restrictions. Use the park-and-ride on the A171 approach, or stay at a campsite on the outskirts and walk or bus in. The West Cliff area has some larger spaces but fills early in summer.
The main valley roads (A684 through Wensleydale, A65 along Ribblesdale) are fine for any motorhome. The cross-dale passes like Buttertubs and Fleet Moss are single-track and better suited to vehicles under 7 metres. Stick to the valley floors if you're driving something large.
Larger campsites with chemical disposal points are your main option. Some will allow non-residents to use facilities for a small charge. There are no dedicated public service points in the county.
Late August and September for the heather. The moors turn purple and the light is warm. Spring is good for lambing season and empty roads. Winter is possible but exposed, and some moorland roads close in snow.
You can drive to the village, but the road down to the seafront is extremely steep with a 1-in-3 gradient. Don't attempt it. Park at the top car park (no height barrier, reasonable size) and walk the 10 minutes down to the bay.
Use the Askham Bar park-and-ride on the A64 approach. It takes motorhomes, the bus runs every 10 minutes into the centre, and it's far less stressful than trying to navigate York's medieval street layout in a large vehicle.
From North Yorkshire you're well placed to head west into Cumbria and the Lake District, or north to explore Northumberland's castles and coast. See the full England motorhome touring guide for more destinations.